| 1996 Gewurztraminer Goldert (Zind Humbrecht) (750ml) |
| Alsace (White) |
| Wine Advocate: 89 |
Wine Spectator: 93 |
| Tasting notes |
"89 out of 100...The 1996 Gewurztraminer Goldert was revealing some unresolved CO2, which I suspect suppressed its aromatic and flavor dimensions. A sweet style (2.5% residual sugar), made from a tiny crop of 18 hectoliters per hectare, the wine was not expressive when I tasted it, but it did remind me of grapefruit and honey. Sweet, with high acidity buffering the sugar, this wine was one of the most backward in the ZH portfolio. It requires a minimum of 1-2 years of cellaring, and it should keep for 12-15 years.
I have tasted many of Alsace's finest producers' 1996s, and it is a tricky vintage. The most consistent level of high quality I tasted was no surprise - it originated from the wines of Zind-Humbrecht. When I met with Olivier Humbrecht, he said the summer was normal until the end of July, but August was cool, and September even cooler, but dry. The hallmark of the grapes in September was the extremely high level of acidity that remained, even by the end of September. At Zind-Humbrecht, the harvest occurred in October, under Indian Summer-like conditions. The grapes were healthy, the acid levels high, and there was little evidence of botrytis. Consequently, little sweet wine was produced. Olivier Humbrecht stated that yields in 1996 were huge throughout Alsace, averaging between 82-100 hectoliters per hectare. At Zind-Humbrecht, yields for their estate wines averaged 31 hectoliters per hectare. As I have written time and time again, there is no secret to great wines ... low yields.
All of Zind-Humbrecht's 1996 wines were highly successful with alcohol levels well below 1994, or such great vintages as 1989 and 1990. In general, the alcohol levels range between 11.5% and 13.6%. The wines are characterized by higher than normal acidity levels, which should serve them well as they age. They give the impression of being drier wines than normal, perhaps due to their higher acidity, which tends to effectively buffer/counterbalance any impression of residual sweetness.
I tried to think of another Zind-Humbrecht vintage with similar characteristics, but I was unable to find a legitimate comparison. The wines possess lively acidity, good aromatics, and are long in the mouth, but they are more delicate than some of the blockbuster, powerful vintages previously produced at Z-H (i.e., 1994, 1990, and 1989). The 1996s may turn out to be long agers, but my philosophy, for myself and readers, is that if you like the way a wine tastes young, you should not hesitate to drink it. Remember - no one has ever blundered by drinking a delicious wine too soon. However, opening a bottle of wine after its aromatics and fruit have faded is indeed a sorrowful experience!" - R.M.P., Jr.
"93 out of 100...So aromatic, the accents almost suggest mint and pine, then the flavors fan out to reveal honey, grapefruit and black currant set against a velvety texture and lively backbone. This goes beyond the grape, expressing its site beautifully. Drink now through 2004." - W.S.
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| Bottle Price:$42.50 |
Size: 750ml |
| Stock Status:
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